is a gray and wet Friday what he sees Agostino, Vito and myself along the A22 in the direction of the Appennino Reggiano. The goal of the excursion is the stone of Bismantova, a massive block consists of limestone, characterized by steep vertical walls and a summit plateau. In this context there are several climbing routes and among them also the 'climbing of the Mountain', a street classified as moderately difficult, we have chosen to open the new summer season ("mountain") 2009.
So here we are full of enthusiasm and eager to explore an area unknown to us Apennines. Mano a mano che ci avviciniamo alla destinazione il grigiore lascia il posto ad un caldo sole primaverile… la caratteristica sagoma della Pietra di Bismantova è ormai in vista … raggiungiamo il paese di Castelnovo ne’ Monti, dal quale si sale in brevissimo tempo (seguendo chiare indicazioni) in prossimità delle imponenti pareti della Pietra , dove si trova la foresteria S. Benedetto e il comodo piazzale Dante dove parcheggiamo l’auto.
La segnaletica ci indica la via da percorrere… una scalinata ci conduce sulla stradina che sale in direzione dell'Eremo di San Benedetto; dopo poche decine di metri il segnavia CAI 699 ci fa deviare lungo un sentiero that, on your left the ' Benedictine Monastery, leads to a plateau where some start climbing. There stop for a moment to look puzzled, then continue along the path that now runs near the mountain, following a very different path. Soon we are facing the first of a series of strokes equipped, prepared to overcome some very difficult points. The various steps make the approach path more and more enjoyable: Very characteristic is the passageway into a small cave , in which we must fall for then get out through a characteristic underpass. Of them little
you reach the actual attack the ferrata (25-30 minutes after departure): a long dihedral equipped with handles and pegs. Particular attention must be paid in excess of the very first stretch of about 5-6 meters, which must be addressed in rock climbing as lacking both the artificial supports, the metal cord is ... but the holds are many and the climb at the end is relatively simple. After the first if it is just a dihedral second, with characteristics similar to the previous, then we end up a small grassy ledge, where you can make a convenient stop . Let us now right where we expect a steep wall always well equipped with comfortable handles. We are now faced with a strapiombetto and soon after we arrive in the vicinity of the dihedral terminal, the most exposed section of the entire route, which climbs diagonally up an 'air lineup that marks the end of the railroad (about 70-80 minutes after departure).
From the top is clearly visible below the valley (see photo below) and the whole wall we climbed ... impressive! Souvenir photo and then a well-deserved lunch break, taking advantage of widely plateau. For the return we take the
path that runs through the woods, and then turn towards the fields which start at the top of the mountain from here you can see the many points of arrival of the climbing routes and you can admire the view over the valley below, where stand the initial parking, guest Benedictine hermitage. We take then path that goes down the opposite side of the wall of the railroad, the path follows the walls of the mountain and leads in about half an hour the 'refuge Stone'. A detour
La segnaletica ci indica la via da percorrere… una scalinata ci conduce sulla stradina che sale in direzione dell'Eremo di San Benedetto; dopo poche decine di metri il segnavia CAI 699 ci fa deviare lungo un sentiero that, on your left the ' Benedictine Monastery, leads to a plateau where some start climbing. There stop for a moment to look puzzled, then continue along the path that now runs near the mountain, following a very different path. Soon we are facing the first of a series of strokes equipped, prepared to overcome some very difficult points. The various steps make the approach path more and more enjoyable: Very characteristic is the passageway into a small cave , in which we must fall for then get out through a characteristic underpass. Of them little
you reach the actual attack the ferrata (25-30 minutes after departure): a long dihedral equipped with handles and pegs. Particular attention must be paid in excess of the very first stretch of about 5-6 meters, which must be addressed in rock climbing as lacking both the artificial supports, the metal cord is ... but the holds are many and the climb at the end is relatively simple. After the first if it is just a dihedral second, with characteristics similar to the previous, then we end up a small grassy ledge, where you can make a convenient stop . Let us now right where we expect a steep wall always well equipped with comfortable handles. We are now faced with a strapiombetto and soon after we arrive in the vicinity of the dihedral terminal, the most exposed section of the entire route, which climbs diagonally up an 'air lineup that marks the end of the railroad (about 70-80 minutes after departure).
From the top is clearly visible below the valley (see photo below) and the whole wall we climbed ... impressive! Souvenir photo and then a well-deserved lunch break, taking advantage of widely plateau. For the return we take the
path that runs through the woods, and then turn towards the fields which start at the top of the mountain from here you can see the many points of arrival of the climbing routes and you can admire the view over the valley below, where stand the initial parking, guest Benedictine hermitage. We take then path that goes down the opposite side of the wall of the railroad, the path follows the walls of the mountain and leads in about half an hour the 'refuge Stone'. A detour
is a must to visit the shrine S. Benedict, a valuable medieval church built in the rock, a few minutes and we're back down along the road initial returns us to the parking .
Conclusions:
what I have described is short but very pleasant trip.
The area is distinctive and deserves to be seen. Very enjoyable the approach path that runs along the south-east wall of stone, equipped with features that may be too demanding. The railway which was well structured and follows with comfortable grips, though we noticed a handle is not well stuck into the rock to about ¾ of the track, deserves the classification of 'moderately difficult', for both sections are very exposed, and for some points where it is necessary to have some familiarity with the rock climbing ... and for the physical effort.
certainly a way that I recommend to most experts, but also to those who have already done a bit of practice with easier climbing and wants to test their climbing skills to something more challenging ... of course always with consciousness of its limits and the due a dose of common sense ... e con la giusta attrezzatura!
what I have described is short but very pleasant trip.
The area is distinctive and deserves to be seen. Very enjoyable the approach path that runs along the south-east wall of stone, equipped with features that may be too demanding. The railway which was well structured and follows with comfortable grips, though we noticed a handle is not well stuck into the rock to about ¾ of the track, deserves the classification of 'moderately difficult', for both sections are very exposed, and for some points where it is necessary to have some familiarity with the rock climbing ... and for the physical effort. certainly a way that I recommend to most experts, but also to those who have already done a bit of practice with easier climbing and wants to test their climbing skills to something more challenging ... of course always with consciousness of its limits and the due a dose of common sense ... e con la giusta attrezzatura!
Un ultimo consiglio: l'altitudine bassa e la vicinanza di tanta massa pietrosa consigliano di non intraprendere la salita nel periodo estivo, a causa del caldo che potrebbe risultare eccessivo.
Riassunto :
Zona geografica : Appennino Reggiano – pietra di Bismantova
Località di partenza : Castelnovo ne’ Monti – p.le Dante (900m)
Meta escursione : Sommità Pietra di Bismantova (1047m)
Quota Partenza : 900 m
Quota massima : 1047 m
Dislivello : 150 m (100 m la ferrata)
Ore di salita : 1 hour. 20 '(45' via ferrata)
down Hours: 40 '
trails used : No 699, CAI trails showing white / red
Difficulty: EEA (moderately difficult)
Judgement: Very nice
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